If you are planning to spend the Holy Week in Spain (Semana Santa), you may be able to witness a unique form of flamenco called Saeta, exclusively sang during this time especially in Andalucia (southern Spain). Saetas are religious songs in the form of chants worshiping the decorated figurines of Jesus and Mary at seemingly endless processions during a full week.
UPDATE: This post was originally written in 2019, before coronavirus hit us all. In 2020, all Holy Week processions and activities were cancelled during the very strict Covid-19 pandemic lockdown in Spain. In 2021, it’s a bit better with limited veneration with Saetas at churches and Tabancos and Penas open for flamenco. However, ALL processions are still cancelled. When the global pandemic is over, these things to do in Andalucia, Spain during Holy Week (Semana Santa) will likely return to the same general schedule as discussed here below.
what is saeta?
Saeta is performed a palo seco (without guitar accompaniment), some in aire libre (free rhythm). It is neither danced nor played.
Some say that Saeta means an arrow straight to the heart of God. And if you hear one, in the proper solemn atmosphere, you might just agree.
As D.E. Pohren puts it in “Art of Flamenco“, saeteros (singers of saeta) sing “of the suffering, death, and majesty of Jesus Christ, and of the grief of the Virgin Mary.”
Some sing of lighter tones such as the following simpatica gypsy saeta:
De las flores mas bonitas (I am going to make a crown)
voy a jace una corona (of the prettiest flowers)
pa ponersela a Maria (to put on Mary)
hermosisima paloma (beautiful dove)
Here’s an under 2-minute example from Joaquín el Zambo al Prendimiento about the gypsies of Barrio Santiago. Of course, it’s something else to see live. . . the religious rites and rituals of man.
In some parts of Andalucia (such as Jerez de la Frontera), there are Saeta competitions in the weeks leading up to Easter. This one that you cannot miss while you are here, whether you are a believer or not, for it is a primitive song that date backs centuries and made its way into flamenco.
So keep your ears open, particularly for those improvised Saetas in the streets. Some flamencos only sing this specific type of flamenco song and only during this week.
What to Expect in a Saeta performance?
Remember, this is a religious song and that the singer is talking directly to God through an image of Jesus or Mary, and revealing his or her soul to whoever is around. So, please treat it as such.
There have been some occasions where some spectators, tourists included, would be talking loud and even laughing. Maybe they did not speak Spanish or understand the culture. Who knows?
Also, it would be best to dress appropriately. Most locals dress up as if they are going to church no matter how hot it is outside. Many performances are even at churches. You do NOT necessarily have to dress up in suit and tie like them. But please… sandals, shorts or your-preciousness-revealing miniskirts and top??!!??!
So, if you chance upon one, now you know! So, have some reverence, even if you are a non-believer like the father of our free electrons family.
And if you are going to see one, especially at a church, DO get there earlier than scheduled to make sure you get in and see one. It can get really packed with long lines.
where to see saeta in jerez de la frontera?
You can see (perhaps experience is a better term for it) Saeta at peñas (flamenco clubs or associations like Peña La Buleria, Peña Buena Gente), at balconies and other landmarks during the Holy Week processions, and (if you are lucky) in some quiet corner or bar at an off-the-beaten paths during inspired moments.
saeta schedule in jerez de la frontera 2021
This year Jerez, in collaboration with the flamenco associations and the artists, decided to return to the roots of Saeta–of venerating the Holy through this primitive flamenco song at churches.
In the past Saetas were sung at balconies of flamenco associations and other landmarks throughout town. However, the Covid pandemic necessitated certain changes in approach.
Here below is the schedule of official Saeta venerations at beautiful churches all over town (some of them rarely open) from March 14 to 31, 2021.
saeta schedule in jerez de la frontera 2020
Easter was effectively a very quiet one in Spain in 2020. All Holy Week processions and activities were cancelled during the very strict Covid-19 pandemic lockdown in Spain. Children could not even leave their houses. Restricted movements only for going to grocery stores, banks, pharmacies/medical necessities and work.
saeta schedule in jerez de la frontera 2019
UPDATE: On 11 April, Peña Flamenca (P.F.) Buena Gente announced that the scheduled Saeta finals are only for guests with invitations and that there are no more tickets available.
Peña Flamenca Los Cernicalos will have a Saeta-related FREE event (entrada libre hasta completar el aforo) until full at 22:00 on Friday, 12 April on calle Sancho Vizcaino 25). See poster below.
For documentation: Peña La Buleria also had one with a presentation of a book about Saeta (and of course some saeteros) on 4 April (calle Empedrada 20), entrada libre y gratuita.
Here below is the schedule for Peña Flamenca Buena Gente’ Saeta competition where you can reliably see a Saeta performance in the week before Easter.
So far we have the (above) Peña Flamenca Buena Gente contest (concurso) where you can reliably see a Saeta performance. Semi finals begining at 2100h on 05 and 06 April 2019 @ “Nave del Aceite” in Plaza Belen.
FREE entrance. If you are like the locals who bring their family along, there is a nice playground with a wide open space for your kids’ free play in the plaza.
The finals will be at 20:30 on 13 April at Sala Compañia.
Usually also FREE entrance until full. Arrive early. There will be a line.
To kick off the Saeta competition, Peña Flamenca Buena Gente has an “exultation” of the Saeta at 21:00 on Friday, 29 March at the church of San Mateo in the old historic center.
If you do not speak Spanish, this may be a bit too much because the “exaltadora” can talk triumphantly and rejoice for over an hour. Stay for the Saeteros and the guitar for a truly unique cultural experience in this land of sherry, flamenco and dancing horses.
WHAT OTHER THINGS TO DO IN JEREZ DURING HOLY WEEK?
In this land of sherry, flamenco and dancing horses, you are sure to find the first two during your stay here in the Easter Holy Week. There may be horse buggy rides available for the tourists.
The schedule for dancing horses would usually be closed for the week. This is Catholic Spain after all.
There would still be flamenco shows in Jerez at Tabancos (these are essentially “watering” holes that specialize in flamenco shows/atmosphere, like El Pasaje, A La Feria and Tabanco Cruz Vieja) and peñas (flamenco associations like Peña La Buleria, Peña Buena Gente), except for the holiest of days–Easter and there would be plenty of wine and sherry there or at local bars.
Check out: what other things you can do near Jerez during your Semana Santa Holy Week or Easter in Spain for a truly unique cultural experience for the entire family, young kids included!
where to stay IN JEREZ DURING HOLY WEEK?
Before the Covid pandemic, Holy Week in Jerez was in the middle of the busiest tourist season and that means above-average apartment rentals that are usually fully booked months in advanced. Now, with restrictions in travel, there’s naturally plenty of availability.
When the Covid madness is all done and you are planning to stay in Jerez for your Easter week, get an apartment/accomodation in the city center. This would be where the action is and where all the processions would pass through 4 to 5 times per day.
Plenty of options through AirBnB and Booking.com. Costs were even as low as €10 per night!
After the Christmas holiday in Jerez when Zambombas or Christmas carols done in the festive Jerezano style) would fill the streets for an entire month of December, there would be a lull in tourism.
Jerez would practically sleep for the entire January an up until the flamenco-centered Festival de Jerez would kick in beginning in late February and last for 3 weeks. (Note: in 2021 the Festival de Jerez has been postponed to May).
And Jerez would be bustling with tourists all the way until the Feria del Caballo in mid-to-late May.
when is easter/holy week/semana santa?
This is obviously a question for the unfamiliar non-Christians. I am a non-practicing Christian and I still have to look it up every year. Why? Maybe because like the Muslim Ramadan, Easter is not a fixed date. It moves up or down the calendar.
However, Easter in the Holy Week (Semana Santa) would usually fall in the end of March until the beginning of April.
In 2019, for example, Holy Week was from April 14 to 20.
In 2020: April 5 to 11.
In 2021: March 28 to April 3.
In 2022: April 10 to 16.
You get the idea.
Remember that Saetas are not anymore only performed exclusively during the Holy Week. The two weekends before the Semana Santa would usually have Saeta events at churches.
When the Covid pandemic ends, you may be able to see some of the Saeta contest that Pena Buena Gente hosts every week starting from 3 to 4 weeks before Easter.
There are hardly any posters to be seen advertising the Saeta events. If you plan to be here in Jerez and are interested in attending one, just check out on Facebook posts from the following flamenco associations: Peña La Buleria, Peña Buena Gente and Peña Los Cernicalos. They would usually have posts/schedules a few weeks before Easter.
Dedicated to Women: Saeta en la Iglesia de San Miguel, Jerez (International Women’s Day).
That’s it. All you need to know about visiting Spain (and Jerez de la Frontera) during the wonderful time of the Semana Santa/Holy Week, when the air is crisp and smells beautifully of blooming orange tree flowers all over our little-big village called Jerez de la Frontera.
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